Day 541 [March 27/10] -- Feeling "great!"

Today's Report
Position:
37°29'S, 74°24'W (Pacific Ocean, 147 nm from Valdivia)

If you want a definition of utter and complete happiness, think "Minoru Saito."

Back on the water since yesterday at 1700 local, on flat seas with following winds in balmy spring-like temperatures, Saito-san this morning declared himself (and his vessel)  "Feeling great!"

The contrasts between now and one year ago could not be more pronounced.

On March 27, 2009, he was approaching Cape Horn near the close of the late-fall weather window, in a well-functioning vessel, but with the knowledge of four previous Horn passages well understanding how unpredictable and unforgiving the weather can be.

As followers of his trip know, at just after pitch-black midnight April 12 with his rudder and propeller fouled by a washed-overboard line, he was within hours of being swept by a three-day gale back onto the rocks of the man-killing cape he had already passed a few days before.

Nearly a full year later, he has survived an excruciatingly frustrating, frigid Chilean winter in a crowded fishing harbor, an emergency abdominal operation, two additional Cape Horn passages, two destroyed genoas, a highly risky voyage up the desolate southern Chile coast, two engine breakdowns, three furling equipment failures, a damaged main, an injured arm, and history's seventh-worst earthquake with tsunami waves that destroyed coastal villages less than 70 miles away.

That was after sailing 16,400 nm and 192 days to get to fabled Cape Horn, the most feared and respected sailing waters of the world, fighting headwinds and bashing through prevailing seas much of the way.

And now on Day 541, Saito-san -- a year older at age 76 -- finally appears to be on his way home.

PS
Saito-san expressed his thanks again to the people of Valdivia for their hospitality and friendship during his stay there, as well as the sanity-preserving help he received from several kind individuals in Punta Arenas, under the extreme physical and personal conditions he faced there for more than 10 months. He also thanked his Tokyo shore crew for their constant support.

***

Distance in last 24 hours: 147 nm
Distance completed: 17,648 nm
To Yokohama: 10,622 nm (distance remaining: 37.6%)
Heading: 335
Reported boat speed: 5.0 kt (day's average: 6.1 kt)
Weather: Clear 
Temperature: 16.5° C
Barometer: 1020 hPa (rising)
Wind (from): Favorable 18-20 kt S -- expected to remain next 19 hrs
Waves: 1.0 - 1.5 m
Current (from): 1.5 kt S
Engine rpms: 4 hrs 1500, 20 hrs 2000
Generator: 2.0 hrs
Sails: Genoa, 90% open, mainsail 2-pt reef sailing/motor off since 2 hrs prior to call after wind changed to southerly (from south)

Position Map (click to enlarge)




Day 540 [March 26/10] -- Saito-san departs Valdivia

39°48'S, 73°27'W (Back in the Pacific)

Saito-san called and said he left Valdivia at 1700 local time today and at the time of his 2000 (0800 JST) call had just entered the Pacific Ocean.

He reports the winds out of the NW at 10 knots.

Boat heading 325 at 5 kts motoring at 1500 rpm, waiting for good visibility before sailing.

Weather is foggy, with visibility about half a mile to one mile. He says the radar is working.

All systems are working well.

We want to especially thank Sr. Edgardo Ojeda Bucarey, Administrador of Club de Yates Valdivia, for his many, many kindnesses shown to Saito-san during his time there.

He will continue to call in his position twice a day. We will receive beacon reports 4 times a day.

No earthquakes on the Chilean central coast have been reported in the past 10 hours.
We will supply more details in a subsequent post, but for now we're all just glad he's back on his way again!





Day 539 [March 25/10] -- Almost ready

Today's Report
March 25/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

The replacement furler swivel arrived and was installed yesterday along with a halyard wrap preventer, Saito-san reported today. Both were supplied by the manufacturer under warranty, though local delivery from Santiago and customs handling and duty added on another 191,000 pesos ($350) and a frustrating 14-day delay. At least it finally could reach him!

He said repairs and sail rigging are finished and everything "looks good." His arm, injured from a falling hatch, is now completely recovered. 

Other than clearing customs and getting a stamp on his exit papers he appears set to go. He expects to leave within the next two days. 

The timing appears good, with the weather and winds favorable. Plus his extended visa runs out on March 31.

Day 533 [March 18/10] -- A different sort of race

Today's Report
March 18/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)


While Saito-san says he has not felt them, the aftershocks continue in central Chile on a daily basis. Just today there have been the following strong tremors, as of 8 pm Tokyo time:

5.4 magnitude -- 2 hours ago
5.0 -- 8 hours ago
4.8 -- 12 hours ago
4.7 -- 14 hours ago
4.9 -- 15 hours ago
5.1, 5.1, 5.0, and 5.2 -- all 1 day ago

(Note: These reports are available as constantly refreshed updates on the web in a smartphone application called "Epicentral." For iPhones, it's available for free from the App Store.)

So while we have our fingers confidently crossed (!), there is still a race, of sorts, to get him out of Valdivia and away from these seismically precarious conditions as he sits just 10 miles up a river from a coastline subject to tsunami waves that might come rushing in at any time. Once out to sea and well away from the coast he should be fine.

The delay to leave is now down to a single cause, but one we have grown wearily used to.

Customs, for no reason that we have yet heard, has held up the delivery of the replacement genoa furler swivel.

It was dispatched on March 4 from the manufacturer and we've been watching for its release from Santiago since it landed there on March 10.

In an email today we were told by the manufacturer's rep that "our UPS contact [is] contacting the UPS office in Chile to get more information." So we anticipate that this will be cleared up soon.

In the meantime, the replacement water pump for the aux. generator was received in just 7 days from Tokyo by Express Japan Post (despite the intervening massively destructive earthquake) and installed on Tuesday, and Saito-san reports the generator is now back working well.

The sails were received Wednesday from being repaired in Valparaiso (which was also hit by the earthquake), and Saito-san put the main on in about 4 hours yesterday with the help of marina staff.

We greatly appreciate the many kindnesses that have been shown Saito-san by the marina management, including nearly daily email exchanges through the office of the marina administrator, Mr. Edgardo Ojeda Bucarey.

The newly repaired genoa will have to wait until the swivel arrives and the rigger can come to the boat to complete the installation. A halyard wrap preventer has also been supplied by the manufacturer at no added charge. We thank them very much for that.

After those are installed and the genoa is back in place, Saito-san expects to leave the following day -- weather and earthquakes permitting!

Day 523 [March 9/10] -- Images from the past

Today's Report
March 9/10 0800 JST


These are pictures Saito-san sent today that are thumb-tacked to a bulletin board at the marina. These show boats resting on the bottom of the river after the tsunami from the earthquake in 1960.

They serve as a stark reminder what the sailors in Valdivia face in addition to the the usual challenges of sailing just 800 nm north of Cape Horn. [Click to enlarge.]



















































While we have been waiting for the parts he needs to get back on the water,* we read a really excellent portrayal of the 1968-69 London Sunday Times Golden Globe Race that was won by Saito's long-time friend and fellow BOC competitor, Sir Robin Knox-Johnston. In fact, he was the only one who finished.

* Rather miraculously, we thought, the fresh water pump for the aux. generator arrived three days ago, taking just 7 days from Tokyo by express mail sent via Japan Post. That was despite the disruption from the earthquake, and just a quarter of the time it took for our first delivery in May, 2009, to Punta Arenas.

The book, titled "A Voyage for Madmen," by Peter Nichols, is a widely acclaimed history that focuses in exquisite detail not just on the race, but on the mental makeup of the nine men who competed in the first organized competition to sail around the world solo, non-stop, and unassisted.

It's available from Amazon and highly recommended for anyone with even the slightest interest in what drives someone to undertake such a voyage. We got the Amazon Kindle version. Here's a link to the book, letting you browse through key pages.


















We met Sir Robin ourselves in Tokyo several years ago, and enjoyed hearing his stories over beers and bits of grilled Kobe beef in Roppongi (a Tokyo entertainment district). We saw that the Robin of 40 years gone by was no less the man portrayed in Nichols' masterful account. The next year, 2006, Sir Robin competed "one last time" (as he vowed) in a non-stop, solo circumnavigation race -- and again finished, at age 67.

Sir Robin in Tokyo in 2005

Day 518 [March 4/10] -- Not just one, but TWO, earlier massive 'Valdivia Earthquakes'

Today's Report
March 4/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)


We received an email from a Saito supporter, excerpted below, which got us looking a bit more into past earthquake trauma and have discovered information that makes us even more thankful this was not worse for Saito-san and the people of Valdivia, his newest "hometown" until ordered repair parts arrive.

A Google search reveals that not just one, but TWO, earthquakes carry the name "Valdivia." In addition to history's strongest earthquake, at 9.5 on the scale seismologists use, there was a much earlier one that struck during the original period of Spanish occupancy in the 16th century. This one is called the "1575 Valdivia Earthquake."


According to Wikipedia:

Pedro Mariño de Lobera, who was corregidor [chief magistrate] of Valdivia ... wrote that the waters of the river opened like the Red Sea, one part flowing upstream and one downstream. Mariño de Lobera also evacuated the city until the dam at Laguna Riñihua (Riñihue Lake) burst. At that moment he wrote that, while many Indians died, no Spaniards did, as the settlement of Valdivia was moved temporarily away from the riverside.

Accounts of the second Valdivia namesake earthquake in 1960 include mention of the Isla (Island) of Chiloe, presumed to be named after Chile, or perhaps was the origin of the country's name, which was swept by towering 25-meter (82-foot) tsunami waves, destroying the island's ports and killing 200 people. On the 10-nm river approach to Valdivia, the river banks collapsed, and a large ship sunk by tsunami waves can still be seen resting on the river bottom. This picture shows destroyed homes in Valdivia after that earthquake.

Today, the uppermost part of the island has a small fishing harbor, and a bit further inland is the Port of Ancud, about 2 days by sea (125 nm) south of Valdivia. Ancud was the first stopover point we considered for Saito-san as we tried to determine the best port for repairs and refueling after he made the difficult 800 nm stretch up the Chilean coastline. Hanaoka-san, who assisted Saito nearly 9 months in Punta Arenas, has a friend in Valdivia, and knew of the marina there, so the choice was made for NBSDIII to head for there instead.

At the time we were trying to decide which port would be easiest for Saito to reach without having local charts on board. Had we asked him to stop somewhere other than the further inland port of Valdivia, it is highly possible he would have been at an exposed mooring when the tsunami swept down the Chilean coast Saturday morning, later to be felt as far away as Hawaii, Los Angeles, and Japan.

If not for Hanaoka-san's suggestion, Saito-san likely would have been in Ancud when the earthquake hit. And had the earthquake been even close to a repeat of the earlier two Valdivia-named disasters, the consequences would have been all too predictable.

Assessment of Saturday's widespread tsunami damage continues. In Tirúa, a small fishing village just 95 miles north of Valdivia, waves washed away about 50 houses, bent iron light poles to the ground, and deposited several cars in the river that runs along the town.

Tirúa, Valdivia, Ancud, and Isla Chiloe




































The email received from Derek follows, and is representative of a number of phone calls and emails we have received. Our thanks to Derek for his kind thoughts and continued support, which have been passed to Saito-san.

With great relief I read the latest two postings – I followed since last weekend’s huge earthquake and tsunami the situation concerned and worrying firstly about Saito-san’s wellbeing and secondly about NBSDIII.

It is great to know both are in good shape although a boat can be replaced – nothing can bring back a human being.
It will be sometime until the logistics and infrastructure are repaired sufficiently to get Saito-san the parts he urgently needs to continue his voyage and leave Valdivia.
We already knew this was going to be a big challenge we somehow didn’t expect all this “excitement” that nature was going to throw in Saito-san’s direction.
Kind regards,

Derek 

Day 517 [March 3/10] -- A fortunate break for Saito

Today's Report
March 3/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

While the day's news from northern Chile is full of stories about looting and fires in the aftermath of Saturday's 8.8 magnitude earthquake, the word from Valdivia continues to be reassuring.

As the entire world has now been reminded, Valdivia was devastated in 1960 by the worst recorded earthquake in history, 9.5 on the quake intensity cale, but this time was apparently virtually unscathed, with no deaths and relatively little damage from Saturday's quake that seismologists say is the 7th greatest in measured strength. Saito-san has sent us some pictures, but only one showed any obvious damage -- a fissure in the pavement near the marina.

So it is with much relief that we can say that there was tremendously good fortune in the choice of Valdivia as a port to have repairs done on BMW Shuten-Doji III. The long, 10 nm section of river that separates the city from the Pacific acted as a buffer against the resulting tsunami that caused extensive property damage, numerous injuries, and some loss of life in less-protected ports only a day or so closer by sea to the quake's epicenter.

After three days the death toll is continuing to climb, and has now passed 720 persons [raised to 800 fatalities later] as rescue teams search the rubble of homes and buildings in Santiago and the even harder-hit city of Concepcion, just 200 miles north of Valdivia. Our deep sympathy goes out to the many people who have lost loved ones and we hope for the continued safety of the survivors of the affected areas.

Had Saito-san just continued for another day and a half and put into the seaside port of Concepcion, instead, there almost certainly would now be a very different story about him and his vessel.


A split in the pavement in Valdivia





















Day 514 [Feb. 28/10] -- Valdivia spared, Saito is fine

Today's Report
Feb. 28/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

Saito-san called last night about 10 pm Tokyo time to report that he was fine. He called again this morning to provide more details.

At the time of his first call he had little news himself on the earthquake other than word-of-mouth. There was no cell phone service throughout the day until it was restored in late afternoon. He had not heard of the magnitude of the quake until our call, which he could finally make by Iridium 6 1/2 hours later. He said he had heard from a fellow boater that "Santiago was 80% destroyed" (a figure that TV news showed later was greatly exaggerated).

Saito-san said that he was awakened about 3:30 am by unusual boat movement but that it caused no damage to the boat or dock facilities. Later in the morning he visited the marina's main building. Other than a large crack in the floor there was no noticeable damage, he said. 

He reported that a tsunami came up the river, though "it wasn't much, only about half a meter," he estimated, arriving several hours after the earthquake struck.

He walked through streets of Valdivia and saw no serious damage. All shops were closed, he noticed.

It is expected that delivery of the parts that have been sent to him to repair the aux. generator and genoa furler will now be delayed. According to CNN, the Pan American Highway connecting the north and south is expected to take weeks or months to be repaired. Major bridges are damaged or collapsed, including those that connect the northern and southern areas of the country. We have to assume as well that air service to Valdivia will be disrupted for some time.

We tried to call Hanaoka-san in Punta Arenas, and were not able to get through. It is presumed no damage resulted there as it is 800 miles further south.

Saito-san does not know the status of the two sails, the main and the genoa, which are off the boat after being sent to a sail loft to be repaired. The rigger is scheduled to visit Monday and Saito-san said he hopes to learn about the sails then. He is unsure whether the loft was outside the area of intense quake damage.

CNN is reporting that at least 214 persons were killed in Santiago, and that more than 45 aftershocks have occurred. Experts have calculated that it was 800 times the magnitude of the recent quake in Haiti, but with less damage due to various factors including the greater depth of the Chilean quake and better earthquake resistance of buildings in Santiago after the lessons learned from the massively destructive 1960 Valdivia earthquake.

Yesterday's quake is expected to go into the record books as one of the world's top five earthquakes in terms of magnitude since 1900.

A tsunami "high alert" is in effect (at the time of this 11 am post) for the Japan western coastline with 2- to 3-meter waves expected in mid to late afternoon, with some waves predicted as early as 1 pm. Evacuation orders have been issued for a number of low-lying areas of Hokkaido, in northern Japan, with residents ordered to evacuate immediately to higher ground.

Two-meter waves were expected in Tokyo Bay and Sagami Bay about 1:30 pm.

About 9 am JST, an "all-clear" was announced for Hawaii after a weak series of tsunami waves were reported there, and relieved officials said on TV the Hawaiian Islands had "dodged a bullet."

Day 513 [Feb. 27/10] -- Earthquake

Today's Report
Feb. 27/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

An 8.8 magnitude earthquake near Concepcion, Chile, has been reported. The quake struck at 3:34 am local time.
Google Earth shows the epicenter as 265 miles due north of Valdivia.
We have no indication whether Valdivia has been affected as well, and hope for the best for all the people of the area. A tsunami warning has been issued, and a 9-foot tsunami was reported along the coastal area. A news article can be accessed here.

North and south along the coast near the epicenter, tsunami waves were reported to be 16 feet.

Buildings in Santiago 185 miles north of the epicenter were said to have collapsed. CNN reported the earthquake as much as 1,000 times stronger than the recent earthquake in Haiti, which suffered a 7.0 quake.

A tsunami warning was issued for the entire Pacific Basin including California and Japan. At 9 am local time, 74 persons had been reported killed in Chile.

Updates on the earthquake can be accessed here.

By comparison, the Great Hanshin earthquake that devastated Kobe in 1995 registered 6.8 magnitude.

Valdivia had the historical misfortune of being the site of the largest earthquake ever recorded, registering 9.5 magnitude in 1960. It was named the "1960 Valdivia Earthquake" (also the Great Chilean Earthquake), produced tsunamis as far away as Japan, the Philippines, and Alaska, and destroyed downtown Hilo, Hawaii.
The Valdivia River on which Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III is presently moored rose 4 meters immediately after the 1960 quake, according to Wikipedia.

No word had been received from Saito-san at the time of this posting.






Day 506 [Feb. 20/10] -- Waiting on repairs (of both boat and her skipper)

Today's Report
Feb. 20/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

Local rigger Vincente Leiva visited the boat and determined that the halyard swivel, a crucial component of the genoa furler, had failed. We have been in contact with the technical staff of the manufacturer, who have agreed to replace the swivel at no charge.

(While they are sticking by their product, feeling that there may be other issues as well, they expressed the desire to get the matter resolved quickly, for which we are greatly appreciative!)

We received that good news this morning. Meanwhile, the bad news came earlier in the week.
On the sixth night [not third night as stated earlier] after Saito-san's arrival, the heavy hatch of the aft companionway fell on him as he was descending, badly lacerating his right forearm. He spent the night in agony and in the morning was accompanied to a clinic where x-rays were taken and the nasty wound, which we later saw in photos, was bandaged. No bones were broken but the injury, which Saito-san had tried to downplay to us over the phone, is expected to take several weeks to heal. He has been instructed by the doctor to visit the clinic every other day to change the bandage and to watch for infection. We'll spare you the actual image, but the wound is hand-sized. 
Fortunately, the immense mental and physical stresses on Saito-san are mostly absent in the relative paradise of the marina in Valdivia, versus his nine long months in the tiny, packed fishing harbor in Punta Arenas. There, NBSDIII was constantly being bashed and jostled by heavy fishing boats, as well as faced frequently stormy conditions on the exposed northern edge of the Strait of Magellan. And there, for Saito, even such creature comforts as a hot shower and a warm meal were dependent on the generosity of others. Those are now within an easy walk at the Valdivia marina facilities. And at the more temperate 39 degrees latitude, it's sunny and in the balmy mid-70s!

Other damage inflicted while coming 800 nm up the coast of Chile and out of the "Roaring Forties" has also become apparent, including a 1-meter rip that occurred in the brand new genoa, which has now been taken by Vincente to a local sail loft for repairs. A nearly soccer ball-size fatigue hole also developed in the mainsail, despite being constructed of HydraNet (tm), a high-tech material that is supposed to be the most damage-resistant of any heavy-weather sailcloth ever made (thus close to double the cost).
On a more mundane level, Saito-san earlier in the week announced that his Visa card had stopped working, leaving him virtually peso-less. The card, drawn on his personal account and replenished in Tokyo by bimonthly Japanese Social Security payments, seemed to be fine, had not expired, and should have had enough funds available, a thoroughly frustrated Saito thought. The Tokyo crew tried to help him in Tokyo, only to be politely told that the card holder needed to make the call, not a third party. A long-time friend arranged to have some money sent, but before that could happen a somewhat sheepish Saito called to explain that he had made an odd sort of mistake at the ATM machine: "First I tried to get 90,000 pesos and nothing happened. Then I tried 40,000 pesos, and still nothing. But then the bank staff told me to try 200,000 pesos, and it worked!"
What none of us realized is there seems to be a MINIMUM on how much cash you can draw from an ATM in Chile -- in the hyper-inflated Chilean economy, 200,000 pesos is just $360.

Anyway, it worked, Saito-san got his money, and the emergency loan he had received for his medical bills from the understanding marina boss, Mr. Edgardo Bucarey, was quickly paid off.

Now it's a matter of waiting for the new halyard swivel and for the arm to heal, presenting him with just the latest in a 35-year succession of boat scars.



Saito-san and his bandaged arm
The fatigue hole in the high-tech HydraNet sail



A photo of Valdivia Marina from the club's web page

Day 498 [Feb. 12/10] -- Waiting on repairs

Today's Report
Feb. 12/10 0800 JST
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

A rigger has been scheduled for Saturday to see about the main, and to attend to a problem with the genoa furler. Saito-san has noticed it now turns only with difficulty, which may have been the reason the furling line broke a few nights ago. 
The mainsail has lost the No. 2 batten and one of the cars used when running the main up the mast. These parts may need to be fabricated locally, although neither one is considered essential, especially if the main is not fully opened.
In the interim, Saito-san will attend to boat chores and rest. It is likely he will leave Sunday, depending on how the repairs go.

Day 497 [Feb. 11/10] -- End of the 'Everest' Leg

Today's Report
Position:
39°49'S, 73°15'W (Valdivia Marina)

NBSDIII arrived at Marina de Valdivia 10 nm up the Valdivia River from the Pacific at about 1:30 pm local time, to allow Saito to pick up six new fuel filters and refuel. The marina has about 30 inside berths, plus a few additional external berths for larger vessels, and offers professional services for local yachties and cruisers. Cost: 8,000 pesos a day ($15).

We were assisted in the filter handover by Ásbjörn Ólafur Ásbjörn, an expat from Iceland who lives in Valdivia, and is a friend of Hanaoka-san. Hanaoka had sent the replacement filters up from Punta Arenas and they arrived just after Saito-san reached the marina.

Although it seemed the fuel contamination problem has lessened, with no repeat of the reduced rpms that signaled potential engine failure, the filters are absolutely critical to the voyage. While Saito-san could proceed -- for a short while -- under sail, the engine is required to recharge the batteries, run the nav and comms equipment, and (especially) power the hydraulic steering system. The vessel is too large and heavy to be equipped with a wind vane steering system.

End of the 'Everest' Leg
This leg, which includes 1) the run-up to Cape Horn (1,000 nm), 2) the actual transit of The Horn (300 nm), and 3) the rugged Chilean coast up to the 39th parallel (1,000 nm), is finished.  

Due to the unpredictable weather and fierce gale-force winds that blow 30% of the time in winter and even 5% in summer, in the world of single-handed sailing the 2,300-mile rounding of Cape Horn is the equivalent of a solo climb up Mount Everest. Only a small number of single-handed navigators have ever tried it, and fewer still have succeeded. Not one has been even close to Saito's 76 years of age.

The all-steel, 56-foot Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III was selected, outfitted, re-powered, and rigged for the "wrong way" circumnavigation specifically for this leg of the voyage, which constitutes the most treacherous and unforgiving stretch of sailing waters anywhere in the world.

To understand the hazards and history of The Horn, see this Wikipedia description, which says in part:

The strong winds of the Southern Ocean give rise to correspondingly large waves; these waves can attain enormous size as they roll around the Southern Ocean, free of any interruption from land. In addition to these "normal" waves, the area west of the Horn is particularly notorious for rogue waves, which can attain heights of up to 30 metres (100 ft). 

Although Saito's one-day stopover in Valdivia was not originally planned, it has turned out to be an ideal restocking point, which this evening included a quick run to the Chilean equivalent of a Safeway supermarket, where Saito bought food, drinks, and, to his great delight, a new toothbrush!

He plans to leave tomorrow. Under a large settled-in high, the weather looks ideal for the next week at least, with sunny skies and warmer temperatures to the north, and favorable winds in 2 days out of the south at 25-30 kt.

Despite Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III's own advanced age, built as she was for the much calmer seas and the steady trade winds of Hawaii nearly a quarter of a century ago, Saito-san's selection of her to carry him around The Horn proved to be right. It just took him an additional 10 months, give or take a lifetime.

***

Distance in last 24 hours: 62 nm (+ 10 nm up river)
Distance completed: 17,501 nm
To Yokohama: 10,769 nm (distance remaining: 38.1%)
Heading: 030
Reported boat speed: 4.0 kt (day's average: 5.2 kt)
Weather: Overcast with occasional rain
Temperature: 14.5° C
Barometer: 1010 hPa (stable)
Wind (from): Favorable 10-14 kt SSW
Waves: 2.0 - 3.0 m
Current (from): varies
Engine rpms: 3 hrs
Generator: 8.0 hrs
Sails: Staysail 100% open

Below, a view of the marina in Valdivia





Day 496 [Feb. 10/10] -- Rude awakening

Today's Report
Position:
40°30'S, 74°40'W (Pacific Ocean, 735 nm from Strait of Magellan)

A line used to furl the genoa head sail snapped during the wee hours of the morning, giving Saito-san a bit of excitement as the sail completely opened in 25 kts of wind and 4 meter seas in the 3 am pitch black dark. He was able to get it furled, and proceeded under the staysail.

He made 105 nm under sail in favorable but weakening winds during the 24-hour period, bringing him to within 70 nm of Valdivia, where he will stop to refuel and obtain additional fuel filters, the Rx for the dirty fuel that has plagued him since Punta Arenas.

Distance in last 24 hours: 105 nm
Distance completed: 17,439 nm
To Yokohama: 10,831 nm (distance remaining: 38.3%)
Heading: 015
Reported boat speed: 4.0 kt (day's average: 4.4 kt)
Weather: Overcast with occasional rain
Temperature: 14.5° C
Barometer: 1013 hPa (rising)
Wind (from): Favorable 12-14 kt SSW -- expected to change to 10 kt from SE in 13 hrs
Waves: 2.0 - 3.0 m
Current (from): varies
Engine rpms: 0 hrs
Generator: 8.5 hrs
Sails: Genoa, 80 - 90% open, then staysail

Position Map (click to enlarge)






Day 495 [Feb. 9/10] -- Diversion to Valdivia

Today's Report
Position:
41°56'S, 75°53'W (Pacific Ocean, 650 nm from Strait of Magellan)

A day of mixed winds, sometimes W, sometimes WNW, sometimes WSW, as a large low sweeps under him. He was able to make another good day of progress, however, climbing 129 nm north and distancing himself from the severe sea conditions to the south.

Saito is reluctantly taking the advice of his support crews in Tokyo and Punta Arenas and will make a short stop-over in Valdivia, a city of 160,000 pop. 149 nm from this morning's position. There he will refuel and be supplied with additional fuel filters, after he went through all his spares on the way from Punta Arenas. 

A few days ago Hanaoka-san sent an email from Punta Arenas commenting on the reputation of the Golfo De Penas, "The Gulf of Sorrows," feared by local fishermen for its severe and changeable weather. When Saito-san slipped past three days ago, the weather was not bad, and he even got a bit of a lift on fair winds from the WSW.

Today, as he climbs out of the "Roaring Forties" and into easier sailing conditions, 300 nm back at Golfo De Penas, winds are roaring in at 50 kts, bringing seas of 8.8 meters.  

Here's what that looks like on ClearPoint [his position marked with arrow]:












Red indicates waves over 8 meters. 












Distance in last 24 hours: 129 nm
Distance completed: 17,334 nm
To Yokohama: 10,936 nm (distance remaining: 38.7%)
Heading: 020
Reported boat speed: 5.0 kt (day's average: 5.4 kt)
Weather: Overcast with occasional rain; slightly reduced seas
Temperature: 15.0° C
Barometer: 1006 hPa (rising)
Wind (from): Unfavorable 16-18 kt NW -- expected to change to 25 kt from SW in 13 hrs
Waves: 2.0 - 2.5 m
Current (from): varies
Engine rpms: 2,000 (20 hrs)
Generator: 4 hrs
Sails: Genoa, 80 - 90% open (4 hours)





Day 494 [Feb. 8/10] -- Under the new genoa

Today's Report
Position:
44°01'S, 76°40'W (Pacific Ocean, 531 nm from Strait of Magellan)

Thanks to favorable winds until about 3 pm today, local time, the new genoa did excellent service for most of the past 24 hours, presenting NBSDIII another 100+ nm day, and bringing boat and crew tantalizingly close to balmier climes. 

Just 300 nm to the south, a nasty low is nearing, bringing heavy winds in the mid-40s on large seas. (Saito-san was relieved to hear that did not have to deal with that as he was passing the Gulf of Sorrows (Golfo de Penas) two days ago, an area feared by local fishermen for its fierce and unpredictable weather.)

He is trying to ease off engine use, though had to resort to it as the winds became opposing later in the 24-hour period. During the night, while under sail, he switched on the aux. generator after the hydraulic auto pilot went to standby when the charge level fell. This was the first test of the use of a bank of new batteries that were brought on in Punta Arenas.

Distance in last 24 hours: 107 nm
Distance completed: 17,205 nm
To Yokohama: 11,065 nm (distance remaining: 39.5%)
Heading: 352
Reported boat speed: 6.0 kt (day's average: 4.5 kt)
Weather: Overcast with rain; strong opposing winds, slightly reduced seas
Temperature: 15.0° C
Barometer: 1006 hPa (rising)
Wind (from): Unfavorable 26-28 kt WSW -- expected to change to 19 kt from W in 7 hrs
Waves: 3.0 - 3.5 m
Current (from): varies
Engine rpms: 2,000 (5 hrs) + 2,500 (1 hr)
Generator: 4 hrs
Sails: Genoa, 80 - 90% open



Day 493 [Feb. 7/10] -- Back to good progress

Today's Report
Position:
45°48'S, 76°59'W (Pacific Ocean, 427 nm from Strait of Magellan)

Great relief was felt on both ends of the world as Saito-san reported that the engine rpm slowdown was no longer evident, clearing up apparently on its own. "The sludge [in the fuel element] is not bad, and the tank-side filters look fine," if just a little dirty, he reported.

Favorable winds in the mid-20s allowed him to crank out his new genoa this morning for the first time and turn the engine off. NBSDIII was sailing along nicely at 5 kt at the time of his call. He said the obliquely opposing waves are "rough" at 3.5 to 4.0 meters, "but not too bad." He sounded upbeat and rested after an uneventful night.

Winds under rainy skies are expected to be favorable for another 19 hours and then will begin to change to out of the WNW. Rains will continue for the next three days and then he will sail into clearer weather as he reaches the calmer 39º latitude or slightly before. Temps will rise into the high teens (19ºC/66ºF) -- something he has seen rarely, if at all, below the 35th parallel.

Hanaoka-san, as he monitors things in Punta Arenas, sent a message last night that noted his own relief that Saito-san had passed Golfo de Penas, the "Gulf of Sorrows," which has been the last resting place of hundreds of ships since the days of Magellan.

I received your last report informing that Saito's engine returned to its normal RPM. In the maps you see big gulf in the east of Saito's position named “Golfo de Penas” which is feared by local navigators or by fishermen for the bad climate it has. West side of Magellan Strait and of course Cape Horn are also dangerous position where many people have died from ship wrecks. Saito had big trouble in these 3 places. He is dramatic!!

Hitoshi Hanaoka


Distance in last 24 hours: 138 nm
Distance completed: 17,098 nm
To Yokohama: 11,172 nm (distance remaining: 39.5%)
Heading: 345
Reported boat speed: 5.0 kt (day's average: 5.8 kt)
Weather: Overcast with rain; stiff winds, bigger seas
Temperature: 15.0° C
Barometer: 993 hPa (rising)
Wind (from): Favorable 20-24 kt WSW -- expected to change to 14 kt from W in 13 hours
Waves: 3.5 - 4.0 m
Current (from): varies
Engine rpms: 2,000 (19 hrs)